I started my 3D printer upgrade series with the quick tool change which is still one of my coolest upgrades. However, it missed something because if you change to a different tool, you always have to place the hot end somewhere. With the swappable hot end it is possible to disconnect the whole hot end like the Ultimaker printers. Another advantage of this, besides being able to disconnect your hot end, is that you can use different hot ends for different materials or nozzle diameters. If you use a laser engraver, you don't have to add an extra wire or switches to your control board and you can just connect it directly. More about that in my upcoming videos!

The video about the quick tool change on which this holder fits: https://youtu.be/oK3877cbBeM

Please consider buying me a coffee if you liked it or helped you :) http://ko-fi.com/properprinting/ I place photos of the projects I am working on here too at random to get you excited with what has to come!
The link to my website: https://properprinting.pro/
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NOTE: this is a reversed mount, the hotend fan faces RIGHT, not left. I chose this mainly as it places more weight closer to the M5s and it puts the Nozzle a lot closer to its original position on V6/OEM mounts. Meaning less confusion about offsets etc.
Here is my 6-8 month build of a hemera mount
Listed the whole thing as a remix as I copied the slots on the cooling wings
Base Parts Needed, 4 M3x5 and some 4*M3x15 for the fans and 4 similar for an endstop
Printed: 1 of each except 2 M5 washers (also provided)
More M3x5 for the probe mount, and the dual fan spacer is any M3s longer than 12mm
Overall print instructions are
Layer height 0.2mm
No supports, print BP7 (baseplate) upside down and two M5 washers (for the top two M5s)
Use the washers on the top two m5 screws (screw-head) side and DO NOT screw the baseplate onto the gantry yet
Place and hold in 3 M5 nylock (or normal) Nuts into the baseplate
You must use 4 M3x5 screws to screw the back of the baseplate onto the hemera, use a cross screw pattern.
Then…

Это 4я часть, собираю. Прошу прощения за звук.

Как печатает: https://youtu.be/iRAl5gWQ4Nc
2я часть, показано как происходит переключение : https://youtu.be/3PWP7JvDjws
3я часть, полностью разбираю: https://youtu.be/AIytr-iX5pc
5я часть, настройка Cura -

Модернизация Ender 3 позволяющая печатать двумя цветами с автоматическим переключением. Для модернизации не нужно менять прошивку и электронику. Необходимо напечатать три детали, и купить за 8$ еще один подающий механизм.


Тут можно скачать:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4006462



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